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On the web, most of the schools possessed the same abstract qualities:
they had students, they needed English teachers, they promised (heh)
good benefits and support for their teachers... In fact, of the two
schools I applied to, the Cambridge Bilingual School was certainly the
worse of the two when it came to communication.
In fact, after my not-so-promising phone interview, they did not tell
me if they had accepted me for employment. I had to email them and wait
the weekend for a response! Hess, on the other hand, was swift, friendly,
and informative. (I was told later that this was likely due to desperation).
So when CBS offered me a job, I actually had to stop and weigh the
two. The only immediate difference was the curricula, and I guess, in
retrospect, they were vastly, vastly different. But to a first-time
English teacher heading to Taiwan on my own, the promise of being picked
up at the airport and being provided housing went a long ways, perhaps
even longer than a good curriculum.
In the end, I chose wisely.
I don't think I'll ever appreciate how wisely.
And I don't think I can adequately describe how awestruck I was when
I first visited Cambridge. We were told it was up in the hills, but
I was cruelly unprepared for its grandeur. I think what made it even
more dramatic was the fact that you ascend to the school in a twenty-minute
drive from the gray, noisy bowels of Taipei county. Nobody will tell
you that Taipei is a pretty place. Nobody comes to live here for the
fresh air or the duck ponds or even for water you can drink straight
from the tap (much less the ability to flush toilet paper). So when
we left that world behind and rose higher and higher into the lush mountainside,
a great feeling of anticipation started to grow... Add to the anticipation
not one, not two, but three barricaded security checkpoints we
needed to pass to reach it. These served to keep the riffraff out of
the gated community that nestled along the mountainsides. The houses
looked modest and quaint, but most of them required at least a $40,000,000NT
deposit just to move into; the land that we were entering was second
in price only to the sprawling villas of Yangmingshan. Betel-nut trees
limned the winding road, and cicadas called out from their lush retreats.
The air, though still warm, was cooler, and a breeze blew in air that
was a refreshing change from the stale pollution welling in the city
below. And then we turned that last corner soon after being saluted
by the guard at the last checkpoint, and saw it.
After rows and rows of lookalike houses, the school stood out like
some kitsch fairy tale castle. Its salmon-colored bricks were fringed
by parapets and gothic arches, and formed a fortress that stood boldly
in contrast against the green hillside. It was still under construction,
but no amount of scaffolding could hide its presence.
The last three shots are basically just the kindergarten. Nevermind
the conference room with the UN-style microphones at every station,
or the three multimedia labs, or the computer lab, or the gigantic library,
the olympic-sized swimming pool, the kiddie pool, the basketball courts,
the theater, the amphitheater, the race track, the multipurpose field,
the gigantic portico, the escalator, and the 40 classrooms dedicated
exclusively to English teaching, each equipped with several Internet-ready
computers, a power whiteboard, and sweeping views that endanger student
attentiveness... This is only what is in place. The school promises
a miniature zoo, a butterfly garden, hiking trails, student dormitories
(for the yet-to-be-built high school expansion), and other facilities.
As you might expect, this school is expensive. Many of the people who
live in the area are sending their kids here, and that means that these
parents are pretty big shots to be shelling not only the money to send
their kids to the school, but also to live in the neighborhood.
Did I mention the parent company has deep pockets? They are repsonsible
for 80% of the educational texts in all of Taiwan. After being accused
that they are designing texts and curricula from an ivory tower and
have no real hands-on experience, they decided to squelch the rumor
by building a billion (NT) dollar pilot school to try out their various
textbooks. In fact, they came up with the following paradigm, a bit
like Galen's four humors:

The four pillars of CBS
Their pamphlet contains some revolutionary statements about their bold
vision. It doesn't get really good until points 2 and 3: I wish my school
focused on the consistency of general education!
Liberal and Refined: Education Beyond Compare
- Horizon broadening: Through bilingual education, we seek to strengthen
studetns' perceptions, furnishing them with a global view and an open
mind. In passing, we also help to boost their development of their
self-esteem and self-confidence.
- Homeland loving: In a pastoral environment, students learn spontaneously
to embrace nature and to cultivate love for their homeland.
- Coherent Education: A coherent education system from kindergarten
up to secondary education, our curriculum focuses on the consistency
of general knowledge, computer training , as well as bilingual education.
- Refined Education: Our picturesque campus, with beautiful dormitories
and great facilities, is designed to meet all learners' needs. The
design of our curriculum by our conscientious faculty ensures a true
realization of refined education.
- Science Technology: With modern high-tech facilities, we help students
to develop their skills in reading, writing, and arithmetic and math
that are essential to acquiring knowledge and to improve their analytical
and critical abilities necessary in problem solving.
- Humanities: We offer a variety of courses in art and literature
appreciation, music, drama performance in hopes of stimulating students'
creativity and developing their sense of humanity.
So... maybe their program's vision could use a bit more fine-tuning
in the English department. But they are taking the experimental part
very seriously. They have hired teachers from nearly every major Anglophone
country: South Africa, the U.S., Canada, Britain, Australia, and New
Zealand. They are positively throwing money at the curricula. They have
hired Westerners (or those who lived in Western cultures) for many key
positions, resulting in a school with a uniquely blended management.
And they're almost perfect. They really are. No question I asked merited
a disappointing response. Yes, you can teach ballroom dancing. Yes,
we can buy these materials for you. Yes, you can wear shorts. Yes, you
get your own classroom. No, we expect teachers to think for themselves
and have great freedoms in designing their own curricula. No, the lesson
plans don't need to be terribly detailed. No, we won't be exclusively
teaching to meet entrance exam requirements. Yes, you can go on field
trips; just give us some advance notice. ... et cetera.
Perhaps the following may sound like a boast, but it really isn't meant
to be. This school is proof that I live a charmed life. I made it into
my first-choice college. I was hired for the job I wanted. I was accepted
into my first-choice graduate school, and quit just a few weeks before
my job was to be unexpectedly cut in a wave of layoffs. I got the perfect
Graduate Teaching Fellowship soon after starting school, and it was
they who came to me. And now, I have arrived in Xindian, and
- Have gotten an apartment with an extremely cool, extremely helpful
Chinese businessman by the name of Vincent
- Live in a cool area right by the river (Bitan)
- Have made several friends
- Work with an extremely talented set of colleagues (not to mention
adminstrators)
- Teach in a dreamlike school
- Teach in a dreamlike job
- Earn a tidy sum
- Live only half a block away from a pearl tea place that makes great
pearls -- not too rubbery, not too squishy -- just the right chewiness.
As we took the tour of the place, the elementary school curriculum
director said to me (jestingly) that I didn't deserve to teach here;
that I should have to pay my dues down in the cram schools (bushibans)
before given the opportunity to work here, up in the clouds. I agree,
how I agree.
I just want to take this moment to thank all of my friends who prayed
for me, or sent positive energy, my way. You're all responsible for
this, if only in some small way.
I think I'm going take a walk by Xindian stream and contemplate it
all.
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